Hisense Subwoofer Not Working? (Diagnose & fix the issue)

Whether you had your subwoofer already or intend to purchase a purportedly damaged Hisense subwoofer, follow through with these fast procedures to identify and remedy the problem (similar to when your audio system stops working).

Before you begin, make sure that all equipment, including the Hisense subwoofer, is turned off.

You should never connect or disconnect any cords while anything is turned on, in case something gets damaged inadvertently.

1). Examine the speaker wires and connectors.

Check all wires and connection points leading to amplifiers, receivers, or speakers, starting with the Hisense subwoofer.

Check that all cables are securely connected and plugged into their proper locations. 

The Hisense subwoofer’s inputs are usually connected to the subwoofer output just on the back of receivers or amplifiers.

Inspect the full length of connectors for flaws if the Hisense subwoofer is connected to speaker outputs on the receiver or amplifier. 

Replace any wires that look to be worn, torn, or broken before intending to use the device again.

Check the wires for functionality with a quick test. 

2). Examine the outlets, power cord, and fuse

A “standby” LED on most Hisense subwoofers illuminates to indicate active power. Check to see if the subwoofer is firmly plugged into a wall socket, surge protector, or power strip if it isn’t lighted. 

If the prongs of a plug slip out halfway, it’s usually enough to stop the flow of electricity, gently bend them back to keep the cable attached when you let go.

Ensure that all associated switches (such as those on walls, power strips, and so on) are turned on. If the Hisense subwoofer still won’t turn on, try plugging it into another outlet that you know works.

Inspect the subwoofer’s power cord for any damage or faults, just like you did with the speaker wires. Some Hisense subwoofers include a fuse, which may or may not necessitate the removal of the backplate. 

Check to see if the fuse needs to be replaced if it’s a feature and you’re comfortable messing with electronics. Otherwise, seek advice from the manufacturer or a local repair shop.

3). Examine your system’s and menu’s settings.

Whether all of the wiring and cables appear to be in fine working order, check the menu settings on your receiver or amplifier—you never know if something was accidentally modified. 

Verify that the Hisense subwoofer is connected to the correct audio inputs. Check to see whether the subwoofer’s output has been reduced as well. 

If indeed the input device allows you to change the speaker size, go with the smallest choice first; sometimes changing the speaker size to anything larger prevents the Hisense subwoofer from receiving a signal.

Some receivers will let you use subwoofers with a large speaker setting, so check your product handbook for more information.

4). Check for Secure Connections

Make sure all connections are secure, then turn on the Hisense subwoofer and adjust the volume. Turn on the subwoofer once you’ve double-checked all of your connections and settings. 

Before delivering any audio input, check the maximum volume on the subwoofer and receiver or amplifier.

To test if the Hisense subwoofer is operating properly, start with a low volume and progressively increase it. Select music test tracks with low-end bass content to ensure that there is no doubt one way or the other.

While the sound is playing, the soundbar turns off or goes to sleep

It’s most likely because of your sound bar’s energy-saving settings that it goes to sleep after a certain length of time.

Most soundbars turn off if they don’t detect an audio source to avoid wasting power when they aren’t in use.

Some soundbars, however, are more sensitive than others, and some will turn off even while audio is being played at a low volume. 

Some of the more affordable soundbars may just include a 3.5mm audio input. Only use this connection if your TV or soundbar doesn’t have any digital options, such as digital optical (Toslink), coaxial, or HDMI. 

When using a 3.5mm cable to connect a soundbar to your TV, make sure the volume on your TV is turned up as high as it can go.

This means you’ll only need to use your sound bar’s remote control to adjust the volume, and your TV will be sending a strong enough signal to keep your soundbar from going to sleep while music is playing. 

Connecting to a television or a DVD player This can also happen if your soundbar is connected to a set-top box with its own audio systems, such as Freeview, Sky, or a Blu-ray or DVD player. As with the other suggestions, make sure the set-top box’s volume is set as high as it can go. 

My TV sounds better than the soundbar.

One common issue, even with high-end soundbars, is that they don’t sound as good as the TV they’re supposed to be attached to.

The fact that the soundbar isn’t actually playing any sound and the TV speakers are still performing all of the work is a common reason for this. 

Whenever you’re watching Television on a set-top box like a Sky or Freeview box, this can arise. Even if your set-top box is connected to your TV and your TV is connected to your soundbar, you may need a direct connection from time to time.

When you use a set-top box that isn’t connected directly to your soundbar, this can occur. 

Based on the age of the box, you may have to connect RCA cables directly to your soundbar (older models’ red and white connectors) or use digital optical (newer versions’ red and white connectors) and link these straight to your soundbar. 

To connect to your TV, you’ll still need to use a Scart or HDMI cable, as these will give the images.

You’ll also need to go into the audio settings on your set-top box to make sure that sound is routed through your soundbar rather than your TV. Change it back to the audio connector you want to use with the soundbar, such as optical or 3.5mm aux. 

Your Television and soundbar should preferably integrate HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel).

This lets you connect your kit directly to your TV, with the audio being sent back to your soundbar through HDMI by your TV. 

You can see if your TV and soundbar have ARC by looking at the ports and seeing if they are labeled as such, or by consulting the manual. Inexpensive TVs and soundbars, on the whole, do not support this.

My soundbar produces no sound at all.

There are a couple of straightforward solutions to this issue. Make absolutely sure your soundbar has been set to that input if your soundbar has numerous input connectors on the back.

When your soundbar offers numerous optic inputs, for example, make sure you’ve got input chosen on your remote control. 

Check that the settings on your TV or set-top box are suitable with your soundbar if you’re confident your soundbar is considered as the optimum source.

This is especially crucial with digital connections like HDMI and optical because not all soundbars can handle some latest software of audio. For example, you might have a Blu-ray player set to create audio in the DTS:X format, but if your soundbar doesn’t accept it, you won’t hear anything. 

Examine your sound bar’s handbook for compatible audio formats, then go to the audio outputs settings menu (this varies by device) and select a format that matches what your soundbar supports. In general, the PCM model is an excellent place to start.

My video and audio are out of sync.

It’s conceivable for your sound to move ahead of the screen on your TV if your Skybox/disc player/TV box is connected straight into your soundbar. Many current boxes have a function that prevents this from happening, which you can locate in the audio settings menu. 

Search for an option on the box named ‘Audio Delay’ or something like that’s causing the issue, then tweak it notch by notch until your audio and visual are exactly in sync again.

My soundbar is quiet or makes strange noises.

Audio improvement settings are available on some soundbars, which alter the sound balance. Many newer versions offer a Night Mode that reduces some noises that can wake someone sleeping in the next room. 

Using the remote control on your soundbar, make sure you haven’t activated that mode. Most soundbars, likewise, offer a dialogue-enhancement setting that amplifies higher-pitched sounds like speech. 

It can be effective, but our professional audio panel has discovered that on some models, it can ruin the quality. Verify that you haven’t mistakenly enabled this option with your remote control, as described above. It’s also possible that your TV, set-top box, or disc player is producing audio that your soundbar isn’t capable of decoding. 

Your soundbar may be receiving a full 5.1 surround sound mix yet only support 2.1 or 2.0, similar to the scenario where no sound is going out at all. This implies you may be losing out on a significant portion of the audio in the film you’re viewing. 

My soundbar makes a static or hum noise.

It is most likely the case if you’re connecting your soundbar with a 3.5mm aux cord. To begin, double-check that both ends of the cable are properly and securely put into your television and soundbar. In the tangle of wires underneath your TV, try to keep the cable clear of other connectors, especially power. 

This problem can occasionally be resolved by just relocating the 3.5mm cord. If this doesn’t work, make sure the volume on your TV is cranked all the way up so you can adjust the volume on the soundbar directly.

Because interference occurs when the source (TV) volume is low and the output (soundbar) volume is higher, this could help. 

If none of the preceding methods work, invest in a grounding loop isolator. This is an additional adaptor that sits between your TV and soundbar and therefore should reduce noise. If you buy them online, they cost between £5 and £7. 

They aren’t usually 100% effective, and they can cause temporary other issues, such as a reduction in bass quality, but this is rare. Use an alternate connection like HDMI or digitally optical if your speaker system allows it. Noise is often less of an issue with these. 

Simply replace your subwoofer if nothing else works.

If indeed the Hisense subwoofer won’t turn on at all, or if it does turn on but won’t play anything, it’s likely defective and needs to be replaced.

Final thoughts

Connect a separate Hisense subwoofer to the sending computer if possible to ensure the hardware problem isn’t caused by the sender.

If the second subwoofer works, the first one is almost certainly defective.

However, before you go shopping, brush up on your subwoofer basics so you know what would work best for you.